Panama: so much more than hats and a canal

http://www.examiner.com/x-20090-SF-Girlfriend-Getaways-Examiner~y2009m9d27-Panana-so-much-more-than-hats-and-a-canal-pt2

Janice Nieder
SF Girlfriend Getaways Examiner

Why Panama?

Because hiding in that skinny little isthmus is one sorely under-appreciated Latin American country that is poised to explode as 2010’s hottest new Latin American travel destination. It offers something for travelers of every ilk, starting with a rich history, jam-packed with colorful tales of famous explorers, Spanish conquistadors, pirates and smugglers, bloody wars, slavery rebellions, all leading up to one of the world’s most extraordinary engineering achievements... the building of the Panama Canal.

As for natural beauty, Panama’s got it going on. Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, there are miles of sandy beaches that are perfect for surfing, fishing and scuba diving; cool lush mountains just waiting to be climbed and biked, cloud and rainforests that will tempt the adventurer, and hundreds of gorgeous remote islands. (Calvin Klein and Playboy have both done model shoots here.) Cosmopolitan skyscrapers are just minutes away from steamy jungles teeming with wildlife. Crumbling colonial buildings are being transformed into edgy restaurants and boutique hotels. There is no shortage of vibrant markets, fashionable shopping malls, nightclubs, and luxury spas. About the only thing I didn't find in Panama were swarms of tourists.

After spending four days there last month, I highly recommend Panama as a unique, fun-filled, surprisingly safe, Girlfriend Gateway choice. (There were just a few sketchy run-down neighborhoods en route to Casco Viejo, which can be easily avoided by taking a taxi here.)

Day One

Checking out Panama City

Since I was visiting during the rainy season I expected Panama City to be unbearably hot and humid, and rainy, natch, but actually it wasn't bad at all. The warm precipitation seemed to freshen up the city and the sun would always shine brightly moments later. Plus, you can score some stellar hotel deals during the off- season.

Morning:

I awoke totally refreshed after a peaceful night’s sleep at the Country Inn and Suites. At first I questioned the choice of this rather generic hotel situated far from the hustle bustle of town, but it turned out to be a super location. My balcony had a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean, dotted with boats bobbing under the soaring Bridge of the Americas, as they waited their turn to cross the canal. Country Inn sits at the beginning of the new Amador Causeway, formerly a U.S. military base, which juts out between the canal and Panama Bay and was formed from rocks excavated from the channel. This primo piece of real estate connects three small islands with a popular walking/jogging/biking path (plenty of bike rental shops nearby) that filled nightly with romantic couples taking full advantage of the glittering skyline backdrop.

Big Surprise:

A five minute jog down the causeway brings you to a startling tangle of dramatic beams, plaster and wire which is the result of four years work building the Bridge of Life Biodiversity Museum designed by Frank Gehry.

I spoke to the head engineer, who shook his head ruefully as he shared, “It’s the most exciting project I’ve ever worked on, as well as the biggest pain in the ass! Even Gehry’s simplest components turn into complex nightmares.”

He then proudly informed me that Gehry was married to a Panamanian woman. He hopes the iconic building will be finished next year and then this amazing accomplishment will provide an astonishing opening view for arriving cruise ships.

Head into town:

After a brisk, wake-up stroll, start your city tour by exploring the ruins of Panamá Viejo, the oldest capital in the Americas. This original 1519 Spanish settlement, sprawling over 57 acres, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stop in at the Visitor's Center and Museum for a thorough historical background and then climb Cathedral Tower for the money-shot outlook.

Time for Shopping:

Conveniently located next to the visitor’s center, the Mercado Nacional de Artesania, offers quality handmade crafts gathered from all over the country. Popular gift items include reverse appliqué stitched Molas sewn by the Kuna Indian women (these make good prezzies for teenagers who like to sew them on their backpacks), tiny ivory-like figures painstakingly carved from a tagua nut and intricately designed woven baskets, some are even tight enough to hold water.